WGA Install

Old News

AGP Series I WGA

On SRTGURLs car the turbo heat shield bolts were on really tight. There are 5 bolts holding the heat shield on, the wastegate actuator only has 2 bolts, and the stock BOV (surge valve) has 3 bolts.

Wastegate actuator bolts are 12mm-x2

The heat shield bolts are 10mm-x5
Stock BOV bolts are 10mm-x3

[AGP BOP and Ratcheting wrench]

What makes the job go really fast is the use of ratcheting wrenches, especially if it's the offset head type!

a 10mm will get plenty of use, it seems like Dodge likes the magic number 10...a lot of the bolts on this car are 10mm. I used the Ratcheting wrench and a pipe that fits over it to break loose those stubborn bolts. The job will take longer if you use a ratchet and socket in some cases.

For example:

There are 3 bolts on the stock BOV 2 of them are easy, the one furthest to the left is the tricky one, it is located dead center of the turbo coolant return line and the stock BOV "hump".

First you have to remove the (5) 10mm heat shield bolts, now wiggle the shield, it might be a bit difficult,

lift a bit and push it back and out of your way (no need to fully remove it).

After you have moved the heat shield out of your way you need to move onto the stock wastegate actuator. There are (2) 12mm bolts holding the wastegate actuator on, they are located to the left of the bracket.

This job is easier if you first disconnect the wastegate actuator rod (see fig.1), the rod has a bobby pin type cotter pin, you can use a flathead screwdriver to remove it. When you remove the cotter pin you can pop the rod of the flapper (wastegate) and swing it around a bit to have easy access to the bottom bolt. Now disconnect the vacuum hose unless you already did so. Remove the stock wastegate actuator fully.

fig.1

If you have the AGP Block Off Plate (BOP), you need to remove the stock Blow Off Valve (BOV). It is triangular in shape (see fig.2), it has (3) 10mm bolts as mentioned above. The one on top is easy and self explanatory when you see it, now the one on the bottom right might be a little frustrating if you use a 1/4" ratchet and 10mm socket, (you guys with big hands know what I am talking about). This is where the 10mm ratcheting wrench comes into play, it makes the job easy.

fig.2

[AGP BOP Installed with copper gasket and copper ultra sealant, I also noticed that if you use longer bolts to install the BOP it makes the installation a breeze!]

[Here is the bag of the bolts we bought from The Home Depot]

Stainless Steel allen screws on the BOV/SV/BOP also work very well, especially with clearance issues on the third bolt next to the oil line. (Starkie)

Now the 3rd bolt is the one in between the turbo cooling line and the BOV. If you are a contortionist it’s easy for you! but if you're not, a 10mm small wrench would be handy and also the trusty ratcheting wrench. I ended up working my right arm a bit under and behind the BOV, the BOV will swing up or down once you have removed the first 2 bolts, this should help a bit taking the last one out.

Ok, you're done with the BOP, now you need to hook up that nice AGP Wastegate actuator. it's straight forward and simple, (2) 12mm bolts, tighten them nicely. Next is the rod arm, slide the hole on the rod end onto the flapper (wastegate) pin, put the cotter pin back in. Install Vacuum hose or Boost controller Hose (if installing MBC/EBC).

Make sure that when you install the wastegate actuator rod arm onto the wastegate flapper pin that the flapper is pulled all the way towards the drivers side.

Last Install your heat shield, the only tricky part is the part of the shield that goes under the wastegate (bottom right hand corner).
NOTE: you need to get a wood block and a hammer and flatten this part from under the shield. YOU'LL NOTICE THAT THE ROD ARM IS CLOSE TO THE HEAT SHIELD. I Flattened that part using a wood block and Hammer, I just took off the shield, put it on another piece of wood and banged that part straight from under the shield (see fig.3).

fig.3

Remember to use a Gasket on the AGP Turbochargers Inc. Block Off Plate (see fig.4)
Here is my "How-To" on how to make a gasket for the AGP BOP using a 5"x7" sheet of copper flashing! http://www.srtforums.com/forums/sho...=&threadid=4430

fig.4

On the picture to the left you can see where I added the copper gasket to the AGP BOP, I also used copper sealant for safe measures against leaks.

The pic to the left shows the wga bracket and bolt, you can also see the adjuster nut on the right and the locker nut on the left of the wga rod.

This pic shows the AGP wga Installed and one of the heat shield bolts.

Take notice on the distance on of the 2 nuts on the rod, this is about 1/2", this will get you approximately 12psi...adjust accordingly from that point, it may be different on your car. Also let me state that on SRTGURLs car, 1/2 turn on the adjuster nut is around 1psi, THIS MAY DIFFER ON YOUR SRT-4!. For those guys running the Mopar stage 1 you could run 18psi with the AGP WGA.

[The nut on the left is the lock nut and the nut on the right is the Adjustment nut]

*Turn the adjuster nut towards the MOTOR and it lowers boost.
*Turn the adjuster nut towards the FIREWALL and it raises the boost.

For those not using a MBC/EBC you may not want to run the AGP Wastegate actuator with the stock Black line from the solenoid as the PCM might compensate for the added boost due to the tighter tolerances(12lb spring) of the AGP unit. I have found that just using the AGP WGA works very well alone without a boost controller up to 15psi or so.

If you have the stock surge valve/Mopar BOV conversion you may want to run your WGA/EBC/MBC vacuum line to the green line, after some nice findings by Cali and matto (they both have the stock BOV) it was brought to everyone's attention that using the green line is not going to divert any needed pressure from the blue line if you were to "T" in to it.

Now we don't have conclusions if this is the right way for cars without stage 1 as it is known that the car will make more torque and lose horsepower if you connect to the green line.

It seems like the stage 1 cars aren't having any problems using the green line for your boost source.

The Pics below show where you should hook up your Wastegate Vacuum line if you have an aftermarket BOV and the BOP.
This set-up helped SRTGURL to run a 12.83@110.17mph.

Notice on the pics, we do not have the stock surge valve and that is why the stock pink line is disconnected and capped.

Please, use a MBC/EBC to make sure you do not snap your WGA rod arm due to over tightening. (this has happen to some owners)

The pic on left shows SRTGURL set up which got her the 12.88@110.99mph and the 12.83@110.17mph. Notice the bleed made of a brass fitting, it has a .040" hole. This allows for quick spool up and reduces boost spikes.

Left: a close up of the connection with the “T” at the blue line.

Another close look at the WGA vacuum hose I used.

This pic shows the pink line capped and the T with the blue line attached to it, the vacuum line in the middle going straight up is the line going to the AGP wga. We have the pink line capped because we have the AGP bop and no longer need its use.

Here is where I tapped in for the ATP Upper Pressure Intercooler pipe +Turbo XS RFL set up.
When you use the AGP WGA, AGP BOP and Aftermarket BOV you need a vacuum source from the intake manifold to the aftermarket BOV, well here is a pic where I tapped in for SRTGURLs BOV. This can be found just before the Throttle body, there are 2 "L" shaped connectors there. I used the smaller "L" connector coming off the side of the larger one.

Here is where Jeans BOV is at, Take note that she has the Turbo XS Type RFL BOV mounted on the ATP Pipe.

Close up of the BOV connection.

Here is the latest pictures showing our current BOV connection, we did the Psi-Fi Motorsports vacuum routing and this is where our BOV connects to now. Index finger pointing at the BOV vacuum hose.

This updated on 1-12-04.